Quark Expeditions Greenland to Newfoundland Mountains, Wildlife and Viking History – Review And Useful Tips
This article includes:
Ship overview
Route overview
Ship overview
Expedition overview
Packing lists (what I didn’t use, what I wish I brought, and what I should have saved room for)
Tips for your trip
“My favourite, no surprise, was being able to spend time in the Torngats. It’s a special place with majestic landscape.”
If you haven’t googled the Torngats, please do. Then prepare to lose yourself in the surreal landscapes for a while.
Torngat Mountains National Park in Northern Labrador has been on my bucket list for ages but it’s difficult enough to get there on your own. There is a good amount of planning, paperwork, and preparation to be done.
But then Quark Expeditions came up with a new route, one that included stopping at the park for some excursions. I honestly couldn’t book fast enough.
My trip was slightly different than what the Greenland to Newfoundland route is now, but the highlights are the same and honestly, this is an expedition – you can’t be tied to exact routes, wildlife, or experiences. Mother nature often dictates. And that’s what you want, a trip that balances safety and experience. A cancelled plan often leads to serendipitous moment a little later that you would have missed otherwise.
PROPOSED route
This Arctic adventure was with Quark Expeditions, an environmentally focused tourism company that hosts trips in the polar regions with very comfortable ships designed specifically for those areas. My trip was originally meant to be the ‘Northwest Passage to Newfoundland: Glaciers, Mountains, and Wildlife’ aboard the Ultramarine. It was the last trip of the season in the Arctic before the ship a break in trips and ship repositions to Antarctica.
Our proposed route was to take a charter flight from Calgary, AB to Resolute Bay, NT. Embark there, and travel down the famous Northwest Passage to Baffin Island, Labrador, and finally, Newfoundland.
Due to severe weather constraints in Resolute Bay and timelines, the trip changed to a route and itinerary that’s near identical to the Greenland to Newfoundland trip that’s now offered. Thankfully for me, the Torngats were still on the docket. We flew a charter from Calgary to Churchill to Iqualuit to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland. Our expedition began in earnest from there. The entire trip was 16 days.
Ship (The Ultramarine)
The ship is almost as impressive as the infamous expeditions once you learn a little more about it. From what I can tell, every square inch of the Ultramarine was thoughtfully designed by Quark Expeditions to handle the harsh environments, promote responsible tourism, and maximize passenger comfort.
Let’s start with the cabins. I was in one of the Explorer’s Suites on Deck 3. It is 285 sqft, incredibly roomy, and has a full sized couch in the the living space - perfect for relaxing or watching the seminars from your room. It surprised me how open this space felt.
As a solo traveler, I was paired with another solo traveler (you can take this option or room by yourself). Thankfully, my roomie Trisha, whom I didn’t know prior, turned out to be one of my favourite humans. Hilarious, witty, no-nonsense, and with the most fascinating life experiences from travel.
We have ample storage space, more than enough room to hang up our clothing and store gear. And the shower, it’s spacious, warm, and has better water pressure than most hotels. The room was cleaned twice a day by the hotel staff.
The hotel, restaurant, and bar staff keep the good vibe of the ship going. They are patient, kind, and fun! Often laughing with us or offering meal and drink recommendations. I was amazing that more than a few remembered me from a trip the year prior. Speaking of which, the meals were great. There were more vegetarian options than I remember from the last trip. Breakfast was robust, lunch was always an array of options at the buffet, and supper was a 4 course meal or a buffet. I normally stuck to the buffet and yet again indulged in the fish at most meals.
Most of my unstructured time was spent in the Panorama Lounge at the front of the ship or on the deck looking at wildlife, landscape, sunsets, or the northern lights. I didn’t use the gym this time, but Trisha did and enjoyed it. I stuck to the wraparound deck (to get those steps in on sea days).
I missed out on the stunning sauna and spa, but honestly, it was everything just to keep up with the expeditions and seminars.
“Besides hikes, heli rides, and cultural visits, there were multiple zodiac excursions, polar bear sightings, narwhal sightings, and various bird life to enjoy”
Expeditions
The expeditions came in three main forms; it was either a zodiak ride, a shore landing and guided hike, or a shore landing with an establish perimeter by staff (hello bears) so that we could roam at our own pace. There were also a helicopter ride and cultural excursions, visiting towns and villages where we would immerse ourselves in the people and landscape. On average good weather days, there were two excursions per day. If they could safely make it work, they did. When weather was less favourable, we weren’t bored as the staff hosted seminars (plus, you know, rest days and the spa aren’t horrible).
My favourite, no surprise, was being able to spend time in the Torngats. It’s a special place with majestic landscape. Inuit from Nunatsiavut and Nunavik and Parks Canada staff return to the base camp and research station every summer to provide insights, guided experiences, local knowledge, and a safe environment. Although we missed the season, we had permission from the park to do some landings and hikes. Our expedition staff including historians, geologists, and marine experts provided us with an abundance of information and safety. Weather stayed in our favour and the landscape was worth the trip and effort.
Expedition Staff
Just like that last trip with Quark, I’m not sure what sorcery was in play to gather a team as mighty as this, but the expedition team on our trip was nothing short of phenomenal. I mean it. I’ve rarely seen a team work so well together and provide such a high level of experience for the customer. I was in awe, just watching and experiencing the interactions.
They are all experts in their own rights. Geologists, marine biologists, ornithologists, historians, photography, sea kayaking, and wilderness guides with years of experience and studies behind them.
They set the tone for the passengers. If they ever complained or had a negative emotion, we never heard it. They were thoughtful, caring, and engaging with passengers. They would lead our expeditions, provide seminars, hang out in the lounge with us, and eat with us. Often striking up conversation to share tidbits about our location, answer our never ending questions, or ask about our own story.
Wildlife and Landscape
While I’ve always promoted wellness and wilderness through girlgonegood.com, this trip was another staking block of evidence in my mind of how much we need nature in our lives. More importantly, how we should treat nature, and each other, better.
So, what did we experience? An array of things.
Right on embarkation in Greenland, we were greeted by the northern lights. A beautiful start after a long day of traveling to get there.
Then there was multiple polar bear sightings and other wildlife, diverse and bright flora in the Torngats, dramatic landscapes, and another night of the most incredible display of northern lights.
MINDSET
What is the thing you need the most on a trip like this? I mentioned it briefly already. It’s a fluid and respectful attitude. Don’t stay stuck on seeing/doing one thing to make Arctic worthwhile. If you don’t see a puffin, you might see a bear. Attach meaning to what happens, not what doesn’t. There are plenty of moments to be in awe and enjoy if you keep the right attitude about you. Also kindly respect the staff and fellow passengers, this is a shared experience.
What to bring with you
Note: Quark provides you with an excellent packing light and directions, follow their list, mine is just to show my experience. Browse their FAQ to find their packing list and everything else you might be wondering about.
I brought a 65L waterproof duffle from Uncharted Supply Co and a small backpack from GoRuck. I could have travelled with much less, perhaps half of what I had, but I spent the two weeks prior hiking in the Canadian Rockies which required different clothing/gear and didn’t go home between the two trips.
Reasons to pack lighter
Easier airport experience
No checked baggage fees
The ship is very comfortable (individual room temperature control)
On ship laundry is available at an added charge
It’s easier to hand wash in your room and dry overnight (see tips below)
Quark Expeditions provides the bulky items (parka and boots)
Quark Expeditions provides hand soap, body wash, shampoo, conditioner, lotion.
Room to bring home things (see below)
What I packed
Enough US dollars to tip the hotel and expedition staff at the end of the experience.
First aid triage kit by Uncharted Supply
iPhone, laptop, chargers, and an adapter
Small YETI tumbler (to bring a hot drink on longer zodiac rides)
Toiletries, vitamins, medications
7x underwear/socks, 3x wool socks
1x wool base layer/pullover fleece/quick-dry synthetic long sleeve
4x leggings/t-shirts
1x rain jacket/rain pants/hoodie/toque/buff/sunglasses
2x mitts (light pair and a extra warm gortex pair)
What I wished I packed
I learned from my last trip, and pretty much nailed the packing this time around.
What I didn’t end up using
Second pair of shoes (hiking boots from previous trip)
Emergency medicine kit (but glad to have it on hand just in case)
What to leave room for (this is important!)
The parka is yours to keep if you wish or they will donate it. I recommend that you keep it. The park actually packs up well and the detachable inner puffer is ideal for the travel home. It makes for an excellent jackets to keep in your vehicle or cottage for emergencies during colder months.
The water bottle provided by Quark Expeditions, ours was a 500ml Nalgene bottle which makes it the ideal designated electrolytes bottle.
Local art, books, knits, and other products from stops.
Anything from the ship’s gift shop, like the cold plunge t-shirt after jumping into the Arctic or souvenirs for home.
Added Bonus for This AUthor
On the last trip, I was in the middle of writing the first drafts of High Agency Human. This trip, I was in edits. The change of scenery and high dose of wilderness was exactly the boost needed to get through them and work on the marketing plan!
Tips that elevate the experience
Pack clothing that you can mix and match easily, dry easily, and is either wool or synthetic materials.
Bring eco-friendly laundry strips, or use the hand soap provided, to easily launder your clothes in the cabin’s washroom sink or shower. Because the washroom has heated flooring, quick-dry clothes (and even some light cottons) dry by the morning.
Prepare for sea sickness, I brought gravol and used that daily, the meclizine tablets provided by the ship weren’t needed thankfully (stronger effects). As the ship’s doc said, you won’t die from seasickness but it is uncomfortable and might take a day to adjust to the ships movements.
Bring a minimum of SPF 50 for your face, even if you’re from Florida. Wear it daily, yes, even on cloudy days.
The day is packed, if you need extra rest, watch the seminars from your room instead of going to the lounge in person. That way you can listen while handwashing your clothes, packing, prepping for the next day, going through your zillion photos, etc.
Thinking of traveling to the Arctic and Antarctica?
To be honest, I am. Even though I’ve done two trips, there are still a few more with Quark that I would like to take. I can confidently 10/10 recommend them.
If you are thinking about a trip, my go-to for travel advice and bookings in Carolyn Schmitt. She’s a travel advisor, former diplomat, and has traveled to both polar regions with Quark. She knows about the best deals, provides great insights, and help you find the right trip for you.
Feel free to tag me on Instagram or LinkedIn with your comments and insights, or email vickie@vickiemlanthier.com
Disclaimer: Note that this article reflects my personal experience and opinions only. I am not affiliated with Quark Expeditions in any way and this was not a paid promotion. Carolyn Schmitt is not only would I go through for all my adventures, but also a good friend who I travel with often enough. She continues to set me up with the best trips, experiences, and memories.